The Evolution History Of Chinese Qipao Two: The Dress Of Flag Girl And Han Woman

Dress for women

It is closely related to the flag girl.

The so-called flag girl refers to the female members in the flag family, and the banner is the name of the Qing Dynasty to the eight banners.

The Eight Banners in the Qing Dynasty took the Manchu as the main body and integrated the Han and Mongolian nationalities.

Among the eight banners, besides the imperial clan of the Qing Dynasty, Aixinjueluo's imperial clan and Chu Luo, they also include eight banners, Manchuria, eight banners, Mongolia and eight banners.

The Eight Banners Han and Eight Banner Mongolia are made up of Han and Mongols who are returned to China.

In the early Qing Dynasty, there were 260 thousand of the eight banners, 3 times the eight banners of Manchuria and eight banners of Mongolia.

Therefore, the banners are not only Manchu people, but also Mongolian or Han people.

In this way, it is also inaccurate to define the cheongsam as a garment worn by the Manchu people.

Manchu is a minority living in the north. They are good at fishing and hunting. They wear their gowns on all sides. They have buckles and girdles. They are convenient and warm. They are very suitable for their way of life.

Later, the Han and Mongolian people who had been attached to them also adopted this style of service.

In the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, the Eight Banners system was gradually established, and the robes of the banners changed and developed, which was different from the early styles of Manchuria. At that time, the robe worn by the flag girls was the real predecessor of the cheongsam, and became the cheongsam in modern sense until the Republic of China. It was called the new cheongsam or the new cheongsam.

The gowns of the flag girl and the two costumes of Han women had obvious differences in the early Qing Dynasty.

After the entry of the Manchu into Manchu, they became rulers and forced the Han people to shave their clothes. However, the compulsive policy of clothing assimilation did not achieve their intended purpose, but aroused strong resistance from the Han people.

In order to alleviate the contradiction, the Qing Dynasty had to adopt the "ten inaction" of Jin Zhijun, the Minister of the Ming Dynasty.

Among them are: "men do not follow women," "life never dies," and "advocate not from actors."

The Han nationality women could continue to dress and show their national integrity in the following ways: "official marriage and no marriage".

Costumes, wedding dresses, and death burial costumes are also allowed to protect the Ming style.

In the early period of the Qing Dynasty, the dress and the dress of the Han women showed a distinct feature.

At that time, there were three main points in distinguishing the dress between the flag girl and the Han woman: a look at the bun.

The flag of a woman's comb is two heads, forks, or a head, which is called a "shelf head" because of the insertion of a shelf into a double angle flat.

This kind of bun became more exaggerated and became dararus after Xianfeng, and was called "banner" by the Han people.

The Han women wore a flat bun, and liked to wear black velvet cloth and shaded eyebrows. Their hair styles were low and close to the body, showing their low brow and eyes.

Temperament.

Two looking at a skirt or a robe.

Banner gowns and robes are their most important and most popular clothes.

Inside the robe, pants and gowns are added with horseshoe sleeves and complicated decorations and accessories.

The Eight Banners women never wear skirts. Even if they look at skirts in their dresses, they still have little chance to wear them.

Women in eight banners usually wear formal gowns on ceremonious occasions, including dresses, gowns and costumes, while everyday wear casual clothes, including

Shirt and coat.

The collar of the shirt is right, the twists are straight and sleeved, without a cardigan, with five buttons, and the coat is long enough to cover the feet.

There are two kinds of sleeves: cuff and no sleeves. The fabric is made of embroidery, weaving, and Ping Jin.

Shirts can be worn in summer and cotton in autumn and winter.

The coat is worn outside the shirt, similar to the shirt. It is just left and right to the armpit, and the top is decorated with cloud heads, and the decoration is more magnificent.

The border and decorative patterns are elaborate and elaborate, with lace, flowers, and dog teeth.

Clothes are often worn on formal occasions.

There are many descriptions of the robe dress of the flag girl, such as: "see the wife wearing a hundred White Butterfly shirt, a set of two colors and five pieces of tapework, the clothes of the children on the ground, the narrow neck, the thin strip of body, the body is not the broad wide embroidered edge, what is the pig's teeth, the dog's teeth are tapered, and Hu Xianggun's work is made of three slices of wide stone green tablets, gold narrow edges, and a thirteen strand of gold thread on the inside and outside, which is rolling up eighty percent off sleeves. In the Qing Dynasty Wen Kang's heroic biography of sons and daughters

Contrary to the flag girls, Han women wear skirts and never wear gowns. They still follow the old coat system.

The upper garment is wearing skirts or trousers, and the upper and lower garments are not attached.

Wearing skirts is a major feature of Han women.

Phoenix Tail skirt, moon dress, horse face skirt, pleated dry skirt and so on.

Skirts have skirts, skirts and trousers. There are also women in a brothel.

In the heroic biography of the sons and daughters, he wrote: "I saw a young daughter-in-law next to him. He wore a half jacket with a shoulder pad, a big ideal son, a water red interior and a West Lake color. It did not wear a skirt, revealing half of it, three pairs of green crepe legged trousers and trousers, and a pair of high bridge, big red satin shoes at the foot."

When Han women get married, they wear red dress, with stone green or scarlet embroidered gown, and Phoenix, and follow the old system.

Three look at shoes.

Because the flag girls had no foot binding habits, they wore wide shoes with high flags.

The wooden high sole is located in the middle of the sole, which is called flowerpot bottom and horseshoe bottom because of its flowerpot and horseshoe.

The Han women are all "three inch Golden Lotus", with small and exquisite embroidered bow shoes, and the high floor is located at the back of the shoe.

The style of cheongsam and upper skirt is distinctly different from that of the upper skirt.

First of all, the Qipao's cheongsam is integrated into the lower and lower body, and the lines are smooth. The upper skirts of Han women are much more divided and rhythmic. The cheongsam is tight and narrow, exposing the waist, while the upper skirt is exceptionally wide and fat, and strives to hide the female curve under the wide sleeves and sleeves. It reflects the song and Ming philosophy of "saving the natural and destroying the human desires"; Qipao is more likely to make the wearer look long and upright.

Secondly, the beauty of the cheongsam is on the top, and the fun of the dress is obviously underneath.

Wear high bottom shoes plus long gowns and ground, raise the waist line of the flag girl, lengthen the lower limbs, and move the center of gravity upward.

Based on the difference of national culture, the banners are heavy headed and light feet. Although the bun is exaggerated and towering, the feet are covered under the robes.

On the contrary, the Chinese culture is devoted to "fine steps" and "three inch Golden Lotus" is to show its skirts anyway.

The small bun, the hypertrophy straight dress, is more likely to attract the attention of the audience to the feet. This is the Han's heavy feet and light head.

There are many differences in the specific shape of cheongsam and jacket. For example, cheongsam has various types of slanting lapel, such as a single word, a lack of lapel and so on. There are also horseshoe sleeves on the dress, and many pairs of skirts on the top of the dress. The collar is worn on the jacket and used for the cross of the clan, while the cheongsam is not collar at the beginning and only wears a scarf. Until the end of the Qing Dynasty, the cheongsam stood up, and it was not handed in either.

In the aspect of decoration and compatibility, cheongsam was quite simple. After entering the customs, it gradually developed towards the complex direction. It even greatly exceeded the Han women's jacket skirt. It was set up, rolled, embedded, embroidered, swung, pasted, padded, and staple (all in the Han dress). Moreover, many formal ceremonial robes had sleeves and arcuate sleeves, so that the whole sleeves were divided into several sections. Each section had different styles, colors and fabrics.

The difference between the dress of a flag girl and a Chinese woman is reflected in the final analysis.

The difference between them.

The restrained Han culture created the upper skirts, while the export-oriented Eight Banner Culture produced cheongsam.

In the period when the two costumes were completely opposite, they were also the annual impact of two cultures.

However, as the conflict between cultures will gradually melt down, the differences between flag and Han dress are not irreconcilable.

After the Qing Dynasty was firmly established, the society became stable and abundant, and national integration was unconsciously carried out.

Even the ban could not prevent cheongsam from becoming bigger and bigger, and the coat became more and more like a robe.

In the middle of Qing Dynasty, the boundary between flag girls and Han women was no longer clear.

The cheongsam uses the auspicious ornamentation of the Han nationality and the embroidery craft, and the sleeves also have dark ornaments similar to the half arm.

There are Han women wearing long shawl shoulders, and they also wear flags with short legs revealing their feet.

The same period of flag Han clothing will also reflect the same fashion and decoration.

In short, the dress between the flag girl and the Han female has been converge from the initial opposition.